Does a photograph need to have a subject? That's a topic that always leads to some discussion. And the answer is, it depends. It depends on what you, as the photographer, intend for the photograph. If you are trying to convey something, a message, a feeling, a mood, an opinion, an idea, with your photograph, it will help the viewer to understand if you capture their attention with an identifiable subject.
And with that said, in our photography we think it works best when the subject is in sharp focus. Portraits of people illustrate this very well. Keeping the eyes of the individual sharp and controlling the depth of field to eliminate foreground and background distractions focuses the viewer's attention on the person and helps them look "inside" for their personality.
Landscape photographs typically try to capture the beauty of a place or stir an emotion connected to the location. In these photographs, the entire panorama is the subject and, in my opinion, should be as sharp as possible.
As they say, there's an exception to every rule and the same with photography. A image without an identifiable subject and a swirl of blurred colour and shapes may be a masterpiece of impressionist art. It's up to you and your imagination only.
Focus is another tool in your photo toolbox. Learn how to focus your camera so you know what is and isn't in focus. Then use it creatively.
Another tool in the digital photographer's toolbox is Photoshop and other photo editing software packages. Digital photo editing tools are the new darkroom. We start with the image from the camera just as film photographers began with their negatives, then get to work to manipulate the image to our own ends.
The range of options using digital editing far surpasses what we used to be able to do in the chemical darkroom. We have the option of changing the size, shape, colour, tone, content, sharpness and many other characteristics of our photograph. We discussed some of the basic concepts of digital editing such as brightness and contrast, colour saturation, selections, resizing and changing resolution. We also illustrated composition, combining multiple images and text to make a poster.
There are many choices of photo editing software packages. Prices vary from very expensive to free. We used a freeware package called the FastStone Image Viewer v4.6 to demonstrate some of the basic editing concepts. You too can download and install FastStone and start working with it right away. The handout includes step-by-step instructions to get you started with FastStone for image editing. Look for the download details in the handout or search for it online.
Next week is project week and we encourage you to participate. Tell a story using photographs. Bring in ten photos with a related theme and share them with the class.
Good shooting!
Tuesday, December 4, 2012
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
Zoom, zoom! Lenses and more.
Half of our camera is the lens. In fact, it may be the more important part because the lens bends and focuses the light rays to form the image on the sensor chip.
Lenses come in various "focal lengths". Those with a short focal length capture light and image from a wide angle of view and, for this reason, are called "wide angle" lenses. Their wide field of view makes them ideal for landscape photography and for photographing in close quarters when you can't move back to include all the content you want.
At the other end of the scale are "telephoto" lenses. Like telescopes, they magnify distant objects and make them appear closer than they are. These have a long focal length and have a narrow field of view. Bird watchers, sports photographers and anyone who just wants a close-up view of their subject will want a telephoto lens.
We talked about "portrait" lenses. These fit into the semi-telephoto family because they allow you to photograph a person close-up without needing to be "in their space". Your subject may feel more relaxed.
Most cameras today come with zoom lenses. A "zoom" lens gets its name from the ability to zoom from wide angle to telephoto and back, allowing the photographer to use only one lens for multiple purposes. We can work faster, frame easier and save money too!
When we photograph a subject, the amount of background that we capture in the image depends on the type of lens we use and the distance we are from the subject. This is the concept of "perspective".
Try it yourself with your camera. Stand close to an object and look at it through the viewfinder of your camera. Zoom out and more background is included. As you zoom in, less and less background is included and more of the frame will be filled with the subject. Now step back and do it again. Notice how the relationship between the object and the background changes both with the amount of zoom (focal length) and distance. Perspective isn't unique to photography or any other art form. Our brains "understand" that objects look smaller when they are far away than when they are close.
This week we also discussed some things to help you organize your photographs. As the number of your photos increases, the harder it is to keep track of them, to know where they are and what each group of photos includes. We suggest that you try to develop a system of your own using a naming pattern. You can name your folders and your photos using the name of the photo project, the date, the subject etc. For a really detailed searching, you may want to invest in a photo management software package that lets you use keywords. Sometimes just making a list in a text file or a spreadsheet can be valuable.
We highly recommend that, after uploading your photos, you make a backup copy, preferably to another location and perhaps even to a CD or DVD. Computers and hard drives are fragile pieces of equipment and you risk losing all your photos if you accidentally drop your computer and your don't have another copy of them somewhere else. Many companies now allow you to back up your photos online to the "cloud", meaning onto their servers.
Finally we briefly discussed sharing your photos either by printing, uploading to web sites and social media sites like Facebook and in emails to family and friends. The key message here is that, for printing, high resolution images files will give you a higher quality print. The industry standard for printing is 300 dpi (dots per inch) at the print size. For online use, lower resolution values are sufficient and the standard to use is 72 dpi. Lower resolution image files are smaller in size and upload/download faster.
Lesley has offered you a creative challenge for your next project. Think about the concept of "red". What does that bring to mind? It could be an emotion like love or anger. It could be nature like flowers and trees. It could be danger. It could be blood! Let your imagination explore the concept and then try to capture it in some images. Use your skills in composition, focus and depth of field to convey your concept. Don't forget to have fun too!
The next class is on Dec. 3 and that gives you three weeks to work on the next project. And remember to think about a photo story to share with everyone at the final class on Dec. 10.
Good shooting!
Lenses come in various "focal lengths". Those with a short focal length capture light and image from a wide angle of view and, for this reason, are called "wide angle" lenses. Their wide field of view makes them ideal for landscape photography and for photographing in close quarters when you can't move back to include all the content you want.
At the other end of the scale are "telephoto" lenses. Like telescopes, they magnify distant objects and make them appear closer than they are. These have a long focal length and have a narrow field of view. Bird watchers, sports photographers and anyone who just wants a close-up view of their subject will want a telephoto lens.
We talked about "portrait" lenses. These fit into the semi-telephoto family because they allow you to photograph a person close-up without needing to be "in their space". Your subject may feel more relaxed.
Most cameras today come with zoom lenses. A "zoom" lens gets its name from the ability to zoom from wide angle to telephoto and back, allowing the photographer to use only one lens for multiple purposes. We can work faster, frame easier and save money too!
When we photograph a subject, the amount of background that we capture in the image depends on the type of lens we use and the distance we are from the subject. This is the concept of "perspective".
Try it yourself with your camera. Stand close to an object and look at it through the viewfinder of your camera. Zoom out and more background is included. As you zoom in, less and less background is included and more of the frame will be filled with the subject. Now step back and do it again. Notice how the relationship between the object and the background changes both with the amount of zoom (focal length) and distance. Perspective isn't unique to photography or any other art form. Our brains "understand" that objects look smaller when they are far away than when they are close.
This week we also discussed some things to help you organize your photographs. As the number of your photos increases, the harder it is to keep track of them, to know where they are and what each group of photos includes. We suggest that you try to develop a system of your own using a naming pattern. You can name your folders and your photos using the name of the photo project, the date, the subject etc. For a really detailed searching, you may want to invest in a photo management software package that lets you use keywords. Sometimes just making a list in a text file or a spreadsheet can be valuable.
We highly recommend that, after uploading your photos, you make a backup copy, preferably to another location and perhaps even to a CD or DVD. Computers and hard drives are fragile pieces of equipment and you risk losing all your photos if you accidentally drop your computer and your don't have another copy of them somewhere else. Many companies now allow you to back up your photos online to the "cloud", meaning onto their servers.
Finally we briefly discussed sharing your photos either by printing, uploading to web sites and social media sites like Facebook and in emails to family and friends. The key message here is that, for printing, high resolution images files will give you a higher quality print. The industry standard for printing is 300 dpi (dots per inch) at the print size. For online use, lower resolution values are sufficient and the standard to use is 72 dpi. Lower resolution image files are smaller in size and upload/download faster.
Lesley has offered you a creative challenge for your next project. Think about the concept of "red". What does that bring to mind? It could be an emotion like love or anger. It could be nature like flowers and trees. It could be danger. It could be blood! Let your imagination explore the concept and then try to capture it in some images. Use your skills in composition, focus and depth of field to convey your concept. Don't forget to have fun too!
The next class is on Dec. 3 and that gives you three weeks to work on the next project. And remember to think about a photo story to share with everyone at the final class on Dec. 10.
Good shooting!
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Composing a visual symphony
This week we put away our technical toolbox and went to the dark side! Or maybe more literally, the right brain, creative side of photography, where most of us would rather spend our time. We started exploring composition - the art of creating beautiful photographs.
Just as that implies, composing a photograph is "art". While there are some techniques that can help us think about how to combine visual elements such as lines and curves into pleasing creations, it's really a "gut feel" that tells us when it works. Many famous photographers discount any "rules" of composition. And I can tell you from personal experience that if you always use the same techniques, your photos will begin to all look alike.
It's really useful to have some hints at your disposal though, especially at the beginning. Using techniques such as the rule of thirds and leading lines, we can create more harmonious images that draw in the viewer and encourage them to examine the photograph in more detail.
Try writing down some of the techniques on a slip of paper and bring it with you on your next photo outing. If you find yourself trying to think of something to shoot, pull out the list and use it to trigger your imagination. It's amazing how well they work!
And after a while, you won't need a list. You'll begin to "see". You'll develop your own eye and be on your way to being an artist.
By the way, please don't forget that the classes of November 19 & 26 have been postponed until December 3 & 10.
Thanks and good shooting!
Just as that implies, composing a photograph is "art". While there are some techniques that can help us think about how to combine visual elements such as lines and curves into pleasing creations, it's really a "gut feel" that tells us when it works. Many famous photographers discount any "rules" of composition. And I can tell you from personal experience that if you always use the same techniques, your photos will begin to all look alike.
It's really useful to have some hints at your disposal though, especially at the beginning. Using techniques such as the rule of thirds and leading lines, we can create more harmonious images that draw in the viewer and encourage them to examine the photograph in more detail.
Try writing down some of the techniques on a slip of paper and bring it with you on your next photo outing. If you find yourself trying to think of something to shoot, pull out the list and use it to trigger your imagination. It's amazing how well they work!
And after a while, you won't need a list. You'll begin to "see". You'll develop your own eye and be on your way to being an artist.
By the way, please don't forget that the classes of November 19 & 26 have been postponed until December 3 & 10.
Thanks and good shooting!
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Having Fun with Cards - Depth of Field
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I used f-stop 11 and shutter speed 1/25. I also used f-stop 5.6 and shutter speed 1/100
Semi-automatic exposures and more
It was literally "a dark and stormy night" but many of you braved the elements to attend despite the weather.
We began by recapping the topics of the last two weeks - that is - using the shutter speed and aperture settings to control the exposure, or the amount of light, used to create the image. Both of these controls have secondary effects upon the appearance of the image.
The shutter speed setting also controls the amount of motion blur that is or is not visible on the image. The aperture setting controls how much depth of field there is, or how much of the image forward and behind the point of focus is sharply focused or blurred.
Various combinations of shutter speed setting and aperture setting will result in the same exposure (same amount of light) but different photographs.
Our modern cameras allow us to make correct exposures and to control the effects of motion blur and depth of field easily using automatic exposure. Or, more accurately, we can use what I call "semi-automatic" exposure. We can choose to emphasize control over motion blur or depth of field and then the camera will make all the other decisions for us.
Let's use an example. Say we are in the playground watching our children on the swings and we want to take a photo that freezes the swing. In other words, we want to eliminate motion blur. To do that we will need to use a fast shutter speed - a short duration. We need control over shutter speed - that is our priority.
We first change the setting or mode on our camera to "shutter priority auto exposure". On a Nikon and other cameras, this is mode "S". On Canon cameras, this is mode "Tv". Then we set the shutter speed setting to a value high enough to freeze the action on the swing, perhaps 1/500 of a second. Then we begin taking photos. The camera meter reads the light, uses 1/500 as the shutter speed and automatically determines what the aperture should be to ensure the right exposure. The camera will then take the photo. Easy! We didn't have to calculate anything.
Now let's say we would like a nice picture of a rose in a garden. There's a lot of other things behind the rose so we would like to blur the background so the rose stands out by itself. We need to control the depth of field, so we need to control the aperture setting - that is our priority.
We begin by changing the mode of our camera to "aperture priority auto exposure". On a Nikon and other cameras, this is mode "A". On Canon cameras, this is mode "Av". Then we set the aperture setting. To ensure shallow depth of field, we need a wide setting, say f/4. Then we begin taking photos. The camera meter reads the light, uses f/4 as the aperture setting and automatically determines the shutter speed setting necessary to ensure proper exposure. The camera then takes the photo. Easy again! We didn't have to calculate anything.
As a photographer, you'll often have to decide what it is that you want to show in your photos to achieve a particular artistic or creative goal. By using these two "semi-automatic" exposure modes, you'll be able to control and predict the outcome of pressing the shutter based on your decisions.
Often we just want to shoot snapshots of people and events. In that case, use the "Auto" or "P" (for programmed auto) exposure mode on your camera. The camera will make all the decisions for you and you'll still get great photos.
During the storm we also discussed some of the many other settings on your camera. Have a look at the class notes and bring your questions to class next week.
Don't forget to take some photos! Check out the auto and semi-auto exposure modes and learn to take control the easy way. Try changing the White balance and ISO setting while shooting multiple images of the same subject. Bring your favourites and share with the rest of the class. Or, upload some of your images to this blog.
Good shooting!
We began by recapping the topics of the last two weeks - that is - using the shutter speed and aperture settings to control the exposure, or the amount of light, used to create the image. Both of these controls have secondary effects upon the appearance of the image.
The shutter speed setting also controls the amount of motion blur that is or is not visible on the image. The aperture setting controls how much depth of field there is, or how much of the image forward and behind the point of focus is sharply focused or blurred.
Various combinations of shutter speed setting and aperture setting will result in the same exposure (same amount of light) but different photographs.
Our modern cameras allow us to make correct exposures and to control the effects of motion blur and depth of field easily using automatic exposure. Or, more accurately, we can use what I call "semi-automatic" exposure. We can choose to emphasize control over motion blur or depth of field and then the camera will make all the other decisions for us.
Let's use an example. Say we are in the playground watching our children on the swings and we want to take a photo that freezes the swing. In other words, we want to eliminate motion blur. To do that we will need to use a fast shutter speed - a short duration. We need control over shutter speed - that is our priority.
We first change the setting or mode on our camera to "shutter priority auto exposure". On a Nikon and other cameras, this is mode "S". On Canon cameras, this is mode "Tv". Then we set the shutter speed setting to a value high enough to freeze the action on the swing, perhaps 1/500 of a second. Then we begin taking photos. The camera meter reads the light, uses 1/500 as the shutter speed and automatically determines what the aperture should be to ensure the right exposure. The camera will then take the photo. Easy! We didn't have to calculate anything.
Now let's say we would like a nice picture of a rose in a garden. There's a lot of other things behind the rose so we would like to blur the background so the rose stands out by itself. We need to control the depth of field, so we need to control the aperture setting - that is our priority.
We begin by changing the mode of our camera to "aperture priority auto exposure". On a Nikon and other cameras, this is mode "A". On Canon cameras, this is mode "Av". Then we set the aperture setting. To ensure shallow depth of field, we need a wide setting, say f/4. Then we begin taking photos. The camera meter reads the light, uses f/4 as the aperture setting and automatically determines the shutter speed setting necessary to ensure proper exposure. The camera then takes the photo. Easy again! We didn't have to calculate anything.
As a photographer, you'll often have to decide what it is that you want to show in your photos to achieve a particular artistic or creative goal. By using these two "semi-automatic" exposure modes, you'll be able to control and predict the outcome of pressing the shutter based on your decisions.
Often we just want to shoot snapshots of people and events. In that case, use the "Auto" or "P" (for programmed auto) exposure mode on your camera. The camera will make all the decisions for you and you'll still get great photos.
During the storm we also discussed some of the many other settings on your camera. Have a look at the class notes and bring your questions to class next week.
Don't forget to take some photos! Check out the auto and semi-auto exposure modes and learn to take control the easy way. Try changing the White balance and ISO setting while shooting multiple images of the same subject. Bring your favourites and share with the rest of the class. Or, upload some of your images to this blog.
Good shooting!
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Aperture - an open and closed case!
Shallow depth of field, especially with portraits, is one of most familiar and creative tools in our photography toolbox. It really sets off a person's face and eliminates a distracting background.
Deep depth of field, with everything in sharp focus from close by to the far distance, is likewise an essential tool for landscape photographers.
This week we looked at how we control depth of field using the aperture setting. We investigated how to set the "f-stop".
Of course, changing the aperture is one of the fundamental ways to control exposure since the size of the opening in your camera lens determines the amount of light reaching your sensor. Making an adjustment in aperture changes exposure AND depth of field. Making an adjustment in aperture often means adjusting the shutter speed setting as well to maintain the same exposure. And vice versa.
The point is this - when you are creating a photograph, you often have to decide what your goal is. If you would like shallow depth of field, then you'll need to use a wide aperture, say f/2.8 of f/4, resulting in lots of light coming into the camera. To keep your exposure correct, you will then have to adjust the shutter speed to a faster setting to reduce the duration it is open and limit the light.
Likewise, if your goal is to capture some motion blur, say to make the spokes of a bicycle wheel blur or disappear, then you'll need a slow shutter speed. The slow shutter will allow lots of light into the camera so you will have to use a small aperture to keep the exposure correct.
So far, we've done everything manually. Next week we'll show you that the camera is actually pretty smart and can do the thinking for you!
Check out the class notes from week 3 on the right.
Try out different aperture settings in your photos this week and see the changes in depth of field. Bring in some favourites to share with the class.
And a reminder ... the November 26 class has been postponed until December 3 ... thanks!
Good shooting!
Deep depth of field, with everything in sharp focus from close by to the far distance, is likewise an essential tool for landscape photographers.
This week we looked at how we control depth of field using the aperture setting. We investigated how to set the "f-stop".
Of course, changing the aperture is one of the fundamental ways to control exposure since the size of the opening in your camera lens determines the amount of light reaching your sensor. Making an adjustment in aperture changes exposure AND depth of field. Making an adjustment in aperture often means adjusting the shutter speed setting as well to maintain the same exposure. And vice versa.
The point is this - when you are creating a photograph, you often have to decide what your goal is. If you would like shallow depth of field, then you'll need to use a wide aperture, say f/2.8 of f/4, resulting in lots of light coming into the camera. To keep your exposure correct, you will then have to adjust the shutter speed to a faster setting to reduce the duration it is open and limit the light.
Likewise, if your goal is to capture some motion blur, say to make the spokes of a bicycle wheel blur or disappear, then you'll need a slow shutter speed. The slow shutter will allow lots of light into the camera so you will have to use a small aperture to keep the exposure correct.
So far, we've done everything manually. Next week we'll show you that the camera is actually pretty smart and can do the thinking for you!
Check out the class notes from week 3 on the right.
Try out different aperture settings in your photos this week and see the changes in depth of field. Bring in some favourites to share with the class.
And a reminder ... the November 26 class has been postponed until December 3 ... thanks!
Good shooting!
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Exposure control using your shutter speed setting
This week we began discussing one of the fundamentals of photography - exposure - and how to control it. Controlling exposure means controlling the amount of light that is captured to form your photographic image.
Your camera has three ways to control exposure:
- shutter speed setting
- aperture setting
- ISO setting
After discovering how to adjust the shutter speed on each of our cameras, we reviewed what the shutter is and how shutter speed setting is adjusted.
Controlling the shutter speed also results in controlling something else - motion blur - the amount of motion that is captured in your image. When the shutter is open longer, called a "slow shutter speed", objects in motion will blur or smear across the image. Motion blur is what is used to create those beautiful images of waterfalls that look like strands of fine silk and others with trails of car taillights or wide spreading displays of fireworks.
When the shutter is open only for a very short time, called a "fast shutter speed", then motion is frozen. It can appear that time has stopped. Fast shutter speed can also capture interesting effects like levitating humans and bubbles half-burst.
Both slow and fast shutter speed can be used very creatively. It's up to you as a photographer to "see" what a potential image will look like and then adjust your shutter speed to capture the effect you want to capture.
Of course it depends on how fast the motion is. We looked at a bunch of examples - photographs that illustrated slow and fast shutter speeds. Review the class notes for Week 2 to see the examples again and test yourself to ensure you understand the effect.
We also had a brief look at the effect called "panning". Panning captures a moving object as still while having the background blur. It is achieved by moving the camera in synch with the moving object and pressing the shutter while the camera is in motion. Remember to follow through. It takes practice but it's not really that hard. Practice on cars and you'll get the hang of it. Hint - prefocus on the right spot by pressing the shutter release button half way and holding it there until your target comes by.
For practice, the project this week is to take some photos that show motion blur using a slow shutter speed and some that freeze motion using a fast shutter speed. Give panning a try too. It's fun! Bring in two or three of your favourites to share with the class.
Good shooting!
Your camera has three ways to control exposure:
- shutter speed setting
- aperture setting
- ISO setting
After discovering how to adjust the shutter speed on each of our cameras, we reviewed what the shutter is and how shutter speed setting is adjusted.
Controlling the shutter speed also results in controlling something else - motion blur - the amount of motion that is captured in your image. When the shutter is open longer, called a "slow shutter speed", objects in motion will blur or smear across the image. Motion blur is what is used to create those beautiful images of waterfalls that look like strands of fine silk and others with trails of car taillights or wide spreading displays of fireworks.
When the shutter is open only for a very short time, called a "fast shutter speed", then motion is frozen. It can appear that time has stopped. Fast shutter speed can also capture interesting effects like levitating humans and bubbles half-burst.
Both slow and fast shutter speed can be used very creatively. It's up to you as a photographer to "see" what a potential image will look like and then adjust your shutter speed to capture the effect you want to capture.
Of course it depends on how fast the motion is. We looked at a bunch of examples - photographs that illustrated slow and fast shutter speeds. Review the class notes for Week 2 to see the examples again and test yourself to ensure you understand the effect.
We also had a brief look at the effect called "panning". Panning captures a moving object as still while having the background blur. It is achieved by moving the camera in synch with the moving object and pressing the shutter while the camera is in motion. Remember to follow through. It takes practice but it's not really that hard. Practice on cars and you'll get the hang of it. Hint - prefocus on the right spot by pressing the shutter release button half way and holding it there until your target comes by.
For practice, the project this week is to take some photos that show motion blur using a slow shutter speed and some that freeze motion using a fast shutter speed. Give panning a try too. It's fun! Bring in two or three of your favourites to share with the class.
Good shooting!
Monday, October 15, 2012
Latest Interesting Pics - Feedback Requested
Some interesting pictures I took recently. I would love some feedback please.
Jordan's Self Portrait
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Welcome!
Welcome to the new blog for the "Make the Most of Your Digital Camera"
course at Huron Heights Secondary School in Newmarket. This is an introductory course and assumes you have little or no previous knowledge or experience.
This eight-week course begins October 1, 2012 and continues until November 26. Please note that there will be no class on the night of Monday, October 8 when the school will be closed for the Thanksgiving statutory holiday.
Classes are two hours in length, from7:00 to 9:00 p.m. each evening. We will meet in room 407 on the 2nd floor.
Each week we'll discuss some digital camera concepts and some basic photography concepts so you'll learn to feel comfortable using your camera and how to make your camera work for you.
Please bring your camera to class each week. We also suggest that you bring your camera manual. That may help us help you if we can't determine how to do something using the menus on your camera. We'll do our best to help you apply the concepts you learn to the camera you own.
Projects
We will assign a photography project each week too! Please don't be intimidated ... projects are designed to help you apply some of the concepts we learn during the class by taking some photos. We suggest that you try different approaches and take many photos. That way you will begin to understand the concepts and how they apply in real life situations.
We request that you choose 1 or 2 photos you take from the project to share with the class the following week. Bring a photo on a memory stick or even on your camera's memory card. I will upload them to my small laptop and display them to everyone while you describe the image and what you were thinking while you shot it. By the way, projects and sharing are completely voluntary.
Weekly class presentations
Each week I will upload the slides that I have presented during the class. Look on the right side of this blog under that heading. You can click on a week and then read and/or download the presentation. The slides are in PDF format for easy printing.
Add photos, comments etc.
You are all "authors" on this blog and thereby entitled and enabled to add anything. Once you have signed on to the blog (using your Google id), click on the "new post" button and start blogging! It's really easy to upload a photo, create a text entry, add video and more.
Note that to just read this blog, you don't need to sign on - just go to the link.
I'm sure you'll have questions so ask in class or please email Neil and Lesley at neilandlesley@kinnearandchung.com.
See you in class!
This eight-week course begins October 1, 2012 and continues until November 26. Please note that there will be no class on the night of Monday, October 8 when the school will be closed for the Thanksgiving statutory holiday.
Classes are two hours in length, from7:00 to 9:00 p.m. each evening. We will meet in room 407 on the 2nd floor.
Each week we'll discuss some digital camera concepts and some basic photography concepts so you'll learn to feel comfortable using your camera and how to make your camera work for you.
Please bring your camera to class each week. We also suggest that you bring your camera manual. That may help us help you if we can't determine how to do something using the menus on your camera. We'll do our best to help you apply the concepts you learn to the camera you own.
Projects
We will assign a photography project each week too! Please don't be intimidated ... projects are designed to help you apply some of the concepts we learn during the class by taking some photos. We suggest that you try different approaches and take many photos. That way you will begin to understand the concepts and how they apply in real life situations.
We request that you choose 1 or 2 photos you take from the project to share with the class the following week. Bring a photo on a memory stick or even on your camera's memory card. I will upload them to my small laptop and display them to everyone while you describe the image and what you were thinking while you shot it. By the way, projects and sharing are completely voluntary.
Weekly class presentations
Each week I will upload the slides that I have presented during the class. Look on the right side of this blog under that heading. You can click on a week and then read and/or download the presentation. The slides are in PDF format for easy printing.
Add photos, comments etc.
You are all "authors" on this blog and thereby entitled and enabled to add anything. Once you have signed on to the blog (using your Google id), click on the "new post" button and start blogging! It's really easy to upload a photo, create a text entry, add video and more.
Note that to just read this blog, you don't need to sign on - just go to the link.
I'm sure you'll have questions so ask in class or please email Neil and Lesley at neilandlesley@kinnearandchung.com.
See you in class!
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