I used fstop 5.6 and shutter speed 1/50.
I used fstop16 and shutter speed 1/50.
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Having Fun with Cards - Depth of Field
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I used f-stop 11 and shutter speed 1/25. I also used f-stop 5.6 and shutter speed 1/100
Semi-automatic exposures and more
It was literally "a dark and stormy night" but many of you braved the elements to attend despite the weather.
We began by recapping the topics of the last two weeks - that is - using the shutter speed and aperture settings to control the exposure, or the amount of light, used to create the image. Both of these controls have secondary effects upon the appearance of the image.
The shutter speed setting also controls the amount of motion blur that is or is not visible on the image. The aperture setting controls how much depth of field there is, or how much of the image forward and behind the point of focus is sharply focused or blurred.
Various combinations of shutter speed setting and aperture setting will result in the same exposure (same amount of light) but different photographs.
Our modern cameras allow us to make correct exposures and to control the effects of motion blur and depth of field easily using automatic exposure. Or, more accurately, we can use what I call "semi-automatic" exposure. We can choose to emphasize control over motion blur or depth of field and then the camera will make all the other decisions for us.
Let's use an example. Say we are in the playground watching our children on the swings and we want to take a photo that freezes the swing. In other words, we want to eliminate motion blur. To do that we will need to use a fast shutter speed - a short duration. We need control over shutter speed - that is our priority.
We first change the setting or mode on our camera to "shutter priority auto exposure". On a Nikon and other cameras, this is mode "S". On Canon cameras, this is mode "Tv". Then we set the shutter speed setting to a value high enough to freeze the action on the swing, perhaps 1/500 of a second. Then we begin taking photos. The camera meter reads the light, uses 1/500 as the shutter speed and automatically determines what the aperture should be to ensure the right exposure. The camera will then take the photo. Easy! We didn't have to calculate anything.
Now let's say we would like a nice picture of a rose in a garden. There's a lot of other things behind the rose so we would like to blur the background so the rose stands out by itself. We need to control the depth of field, so we need to control the aperture setting - that is our priority.
We begin by changing the mode of our camera to "aperture priority auto exposure". On a Nikon and other cameras, this is mode "A". On Canon cameras, this is mode "Av". Then we set the aperture setting. To ensure shallow depth of field, we need a wide setting, say f/4. Then we begin taking photos. The camera meter reads the light, uses f/4 as the aperture setting and automatically determines the shutter speed setting necessary to ensure proper exposure. The camera then takes the photo. Easy again! We didn't have to calculate anything.
As a photographer, you'll often have to decide what it is that you want to show in your photos to achieve a particular artistic or creative goal. By using these two "semi-automatic" exposure modes, you'll be able to control and predict the outcome of pressing the shutter based on your decisions.
Often we just want to shoot snapshots of people and events. In that case, use the "Auto" or "P" (for programmed auto) exposure mode on your camera. The camera will make all the decisions for you and you'll still get great photos.
During the storm we also discussed some of the many other settings on your camera. Have a look at the class notes and bring your questions to class next week.
Don't forget to take some photos! Check out the auto and semi-auto exposure modes and learn to take control the easy way. Try changing the White balance and ISO setting while shooting multiple images of the same subject. Bring your favourites and share with the rest of the class. Or, upload some of your images to this blog.
Good shooting!
We began by recapping the topics of the last two weeks - that is - using the shutter speed and aperture settings to control the exposure, or the amount of light, used to create the image. Both of these controls have secondary effects upon the appearance of the image.
The shutter speed setting also controls the amount of motion blur that is or is not visible on the image. The aperture setting controls how much depth of field there is, or how much of the image forward and behind the point of focus is sharply focused or blurred.
Various combinations of shutter speed setting and aperture setting will result in the same exposure (same amount of light) but different photographs.
Our modern cameras allow us to make correct exposures and to control the effects of motion blur and depth of field easily using automatic exposure. Or, more accurately, we can use what I call "semi-automatic" exposure. We can choose to emphasize control over motion blur or depth of field and then the camera will make all the other decisions for us.
Let's use an example. Say we are in the playground watching our children on the swings and we want to take a photo that freezes the swing. In other words, we want to eliminate motion blur. To do that we will need to use a fast shutter speed - a short duration. We need control over shutter speed - that is our priority.
We first change the setting or mode on our camera to "shutter priority auto exposure". On a Nikon and other cameras, this is mode "S". On Canon cameras, this is mode "Tv". Then we set the shutter speed setting to a value high enough to freeze the action on the swing, perhaps 1/500 of a second. Then we begin taking photos. The camera meter reads the light, uses 1/500 as the shutter speed and automatically determines what the aperture should be to ensure the right exposure. The camera will then take the photo. Easy! We didn't have to calculate anything.
Now let's say we would like a nice picture of a rose in a garden. There's a lot of other things behind the rose so we would like to blur the background so the rose stands out by itself. We need to control the depth of field, so we need to control the aperture setting - that is our priority.
We begin by changing the mode of our camera to "aperture priority auto exposure". On a Nikon and other cameras, this is mode "A". On Canon cameras, this is mode "Av". Then we set the aperture setting. To ensure shallow depth of field, we need a wide setting, say f/4. Then we begin taking photos. The camera meter reads the light, uses f/4 as the aperture setting and automatically determines the shutter speed setting necessary to ensure proper exposure. The camera then takes the photo. Easy again! We didn't have to calculate anything.
As a photographer, you'll often have to decide what it is that you want to show in your photos to achieve a particular artistic or creative goal. By using these two "semi-automatic" exposure modes, you'll be able to control and predict the outcome of pressing the shutter based on your decisions.
Often we just want to shoot snapshots of people and events. In that case, use the "Auto" or "P" (for programmed auto) exposure mode on your camera. The camera will make all the decisions for you and you'll still get great photos.
During the storm we also discussed some of the many other settings on your camera. Have a look at the class notes and bring your questions to class next week.
Don't forget to take some photos! Check out the auto and semi-auto exposure modes and learn to take control the easy way. Try changing the White balance and ISO setting while shooting multiple images of the same subject. Bring your favourites and share with the rest of the class. Or, upload some of your images to this blog.
Good shooting!
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Aperture - an open and closed case!
Shallow depth of field, especially with portraits, is one of most familiar and creative tools in our photography toolbox. It really sets off a person's face and eliminates a distracting background.
Deep depth of field, with everything in sharp focus from close by to the far distance, is likewise an essential tool for landscape photographers.
This week we looked at how we control depth of field using the aperture setting. We investigated how to set the "f-stop".
Of course, changing the aperture is one of the fundamental ways to control exposure since the size of the opening in your camera lens determines the amount of light reaching your sensor. Making an adjustment in aperture changes exposure AND depth of field. Making an adjustment in aperture often means adjusting the shutter speed setting as well to maintain the same exposure. And vice versa.
The point is this - when you are creating a photograph, you often have to decide what your goal is. If you would like shallow depth of field, then you'll need to use a wide aperture, say f/2.8 of f/4, resulting in lots of light coming into the camera. To keep your exposure correct, you will then have to adjust the shutter speed to a faster setting to reduce the duration it is open and limit the light.
Likewise, if your goal is to capture some motion blur, say to make the spokes of a bicycle wheel blur or disappear, then you'll need a slow shutter speed. The slow shutter will allow lots of light into the camera so you will have to use a small aperture to keep the exposure correct.
So far, we've done everything manually. Next week we'll show you that the camera is actually pretty smart and can do the thinking for you!
Check out the class notes from week 3 on the right.
Try out different aperture settings in your photos this week and see the changes in depth of field. Bring in some favourites to share with the class.
And a reminder ... the November 26 class has been postponed until December 3 ... thanks!
Good shooting!
Deep depth of field, with everything in sharp focus from close by to the far distance, is likewise an essential tool for landscape photographers.
This week we looked at how we control depth of field using the aperture setting. We investigated how to set the "f-stop".
Of course, changing the aperture is one of the fundamental ways to control exposure since the size of the opening in your camera lens determines the amount of light reaching your sensor. Making an adjustment in aperture changes exposure AND depth of field. Making an adjustment in aperture often means adjusting the shutter speed setting as well to maintain the same exposure. And vice versa.
The point is this - when you are creating a photograph, you often have to decide what your goal is. If you would like shallow depth of field, then you'll need to use a wide aperture, say f/2.8 of f/4, resulting in lots of light coming into the camera. To keep your exposure correct, you will then have to adjust the shutter speed to a faster setting to reduce the duration it is open and limit the light.
Likewise, if your goal is to capture some motion blur, say to make the spokes of a bicycle wheel blur or disappear, then you'll need a slow shutter speed. The slow shutter will allow lots of light into the camera so you will have to use a small aperture to keep the exposure correct.
So far, we've done everything manually. Next week we'll show you that the camera is actually pretty smart and can do the thinking for you!
Check out the class notes from week 3 on the right.
Try out different aperture settings in your photos this week and see the changes in depth of field. Bring in some favourites to share with the class.
And a reminder ... the November 26 class has been postponed until December 3 ... thanks!
Good shooting!
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Exposure control using your shutter speed setting
This week we began discussing one of the fundamentals of photography - exposure - and how to control it. Controlling exposure means controlling the amount of light that is captured to form your photographic image.
Your camera has three ways to control exposure:
- shutter speed setting
- aperture setting
- ISO setting
After discovering how to adjust the shutter speed on each of our cameras, we reviewed what the shutter is and how shutter speed setting is adjusted.
Controlling the shutter speed also results in controlling something else - motion blur - the amount of motion that is captured in your image. When the shutter is open longer, called a "slow shutter speed", objects in motion will blur or smear across the image. Motion blur is what is used to create those beautiful images of waterfalls that look like strands of fine silk and others with trails of car taillights or wide spreading displays of fireworks.
When the shutter is open only for a very short time, called a "fast shutter speed", then motion is frozen. It can appear that time has stopped. Fast shutter speed can also capture interesting effects like levitating humans and bubbles half-burst.
Both slow and fast shutter speed can be used very creatively. It's up to you as a photographer to "see" what a potential image will look like and then adjust your shutter speed to capture the effect you want to capture.
Of course it depends on how fast the motion is. We looked at a bunch of examples - photographs that illustrated slow and fast shutter speeds. Review the class notes for Week 2 to see the examples again and test yourself to ensure you understand the effect.
We also had a brief look at the effect called "panning". Panning captures a moving object as still while having the background blur. It is achieved by moving the camera in synch with the moving object and pressing the shutter while the camera is in motion. Remember to follow through. It takes practice but it's not really that hard. Practice on cars and you'll get the hang of it. Hint - prefocus on the right spot by pressing the shutter release button half way and holding it there until your target comes by.
For practice, the project this week is to take some photos that show motion blur using a slow shutter speed and some that freeze motion using a fast shutter speed. Give panning a try too. It's fun! Bring in two or three of your favourites to share with the class.
Good shooting!
Your camera has three ways to control exposure:
- shutter speed setting
- aperture setting
- ISO setting
After discovering how to adjust the shutter speed on each of our cameras, we reviewed what the shutter is and how shutter speed setting is adjusted.
Controlling the shutter speed also results in controlling something else - motion blur - the amount of motion that is captured in your image. When the shutter is open longer, called a "slow shutter speed", objects in motion will blur or smear across the image. Motion blur is what is used to create those beautiful images of waterfalls that look like strands of fine silk and others with trails of car taillights or wide spreading displays of fireworks.
When the shutter is open only for a very short time, called a "fast shutter speed", then motion is frozen. It can appear that time has stopped. Fast shutter speed can also capture interesting effects like levitating humans and bubbles half-burst.
Both slow and fast shutter speed can be used very creatively. It's up to you as a photographer to "see" what a potential image will look like and then adjust your shutter speed to capture the effect you want to capture.
Of course it depends on how fast the motion is. We looked at a bunch of examples - photographs that illustrated slow and fast shutter speeds. Review the class notes for Week 2 to see the examples again and test yourself to ensure you understand the effect.
We also had a brief look at the effect called "panning". Panning captures a moving object as still while having the background blur. It is achieved by moving the camera in synch with the moving object and pressing the shutter while the camera is in motion. Remember to follow through. It takes practice but it's not really that hard. Practice on cars and you'll get the hang of it. Hint - prefocus on the right spot by pressing the shutter release button half way and holding it there until your target comes by.
For practice, the project this week is to take some photos that show motion blur using a slow shutter speed and some that freeze motion using a fast shutter speed. Give panning a try too. It's fun! Bring in two or three of your favourites to share with the class.
Good shooting!
Monday, October 15, 2012
Latest Interesting Pics - Feedback Requested
Some interesting pictures I took recently. I would love some feedback please.
Jordan's Self Portrait
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Welcome!
Welcome to the new blog for the "Make the Most of Your Digital Camera"
course at Huron Heights Secondary School in Newmarket. This is an introductory course and assumes you have little or no previous knowledge or experience.
This eight-week course begins October 1, 2012 and continues until November 26. Please note that there will be no class on the night of Monday, October 8 when the school will be closed for the Thanksgiving statutory holiday.
Classes are two hours in length, from7:00 to 9:00 p.m. each evening. We will meet in room 407 on the 2nd floor.
Each week we'll discuss some digital camera concepts and some basic photography concepts so you'll learn to feel comfortable using your camera and how to make your camera work for you.
Please bring your camera to class each week. We also suggest that you bring your camera manual. That may help us help you if we can't determine how to do something using the menus on your camera. We'll do our best to help you apply the concepts you learn to the camera you own.
Projects
We will assign a photography project each week too! Please don't be intimidated ... projects are designed to help you apply some of the concepts we learn during the class by taking some photos. We suggest that you try different approaches and take many photos. That way you will begin to understand the concepts and how they apply in real life situations.
We request that you choose 1 or 2 photos you take from the project to share with the class the following week. Bring a photo on a memory stick or even on your camera's memory card. I will upload them to my small laptop and display them to everyone while you describe the image and what you were thinking while you shot it. By the way, projects and sharing are completely voluntary.
Weekly class presentations
Each week I will upload the slides that I have presented during the class. Look on the right side of this blog under that heading. You can click on a week and then read and/or download the presentation. The slides are in PDF format for easy printing.
Add photos, comments etc.
You are all "authors" on this blog and thereby entitled and enabled to add anything. Once you have signed on to the blog (using your Google id), click on the "new post" button and start blogging! It's really easy to upload a photo, create a text entry, add video and more.
Note that to just read this blog, you don't need to sign on - just go to the link.
I'm sure you'll have questions so ask in class or please email Neil and Lesley at neilandlesley@kinnearandchung.com.
See you in class!
This eight-week course begins October 1, 2012 and continues until November 26. Please note that there will be no class on the night of Monday, October 8 when the school will be closed for the Thanksgiving statutory holiday.
Classes are two hours in length, from7:00 to 9:00 p.m. each evening. We will meet in room 407 on the 2nd floor.
Each week we'll discuss some digital camera concepts and some basic photography concepts so you'll learn to feel comfortable using your camera and how to make your camera work for you.
Please bring your camera to class each week. We also suggest that you bring your camera manual. That may help us help you if we can't determine how to do something using the menus on your camera. We'll do our best to help you apply the concepts you learn to the camera you own.
Projects
We will assign a photography project each week too! Please don't be intimidated ... projects are designed to help you apply some of the concepts we learn during the class by taking some photos. We suggest that you try different approaches and take many photos. That way you will begin to understand the concepts and how they apply in real life situations.
We request that you choose 1 or 2 photos you take from the project to share with the class the following week. Bring a photo on a memory stick or even on your camera's memory card. I will upload them to my small laptop and display them to everyone while you describe the image and what you were thinking while you shot it. By the way, projects and sharing are completely voluntary.
Weekly class presentations
Each week I will upload the slides that I have presented during the class. Look on the right side of this blog under that heading. You can click on a week and then read and/or download the presentation. The slides are in PDF format for easy printing.
Add photos, comments etc.
You are all "authors" on this blog and thereby entitled and enabled to add anything. Once you have signed on to the blog (using your Google id), click on the "new post" button and start blogging! It's really easy to upload a photo, create a text entry, add video and more.
Note that to just read this blog, you don't need to sign on - just go to the link.
I'm sure you'll have questions so ask in class or please email Neil and Lesley at neilandlesley@kinnearandchung.com.
See you in class!
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